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"The Main Runner is a piece of maple wood, as is the rest of the fixture except 
for the hardware. The purpose of the Main Runner is to provide a means of 
aligning the traveling clamps/guides. It is machined from the solid and can 
be built out of separate pieces if you don't have a milling machine.

There are two slots to allow the traveling clamps/guides to ride the rail 
machined into the base runner. The rail of the Main Runner keys in the clamp 
blocks for longitudinal alignment.

All the dimensions of the fixture are nominal, meanng one inch is exactly 
one inch, etc. The reason being, that if you place a scale (6" ruler) and 
measure any amount, it will be that size, for example 1/4" will be .250". 
So if you ever have to add anything to the fixture, it can be done independent 
of the fixture, and not require fitting and assembly or dissassembly. 

That is called "Toolmaking

The traveling clamps/guides have a three piece construction. Plus the 
tensioning key. The reason being similar to the idea in regard to the nominal 
dimensions. If you have to modify or change anything, you just make another 
piece and screw it into place. That is called "interchangeability" :-)

In use a yard is clamped (gently) in the double V Block part of the clamp on 
each side, and the traveling blocks are brought towards each other to center 
them on the main runner. There are locking screws to hold the traveling blocks 
in place once this is done. Next you thread the line through the hole in the 
tensioning key that is in the block (the hole is lined up when the mark on the 
key is upright at twelve o'clock). You continue threading the line through the 
block itself and on to the other block and key on the opposite side."

You can go from right to left or left to right, whatever you find more comfortable. 
I am left handed and prefer going from left to right.

Once the line has been threaded through the fixture, you secure it by taking a 
few turns around the tension keys and put a little tension on the line. The keys 
function much like the tensioning devices on a guitar, for the strings. Be 
careful here because too much tension can easily snap the line. Also, you have 
to learn how much tension to have in the line because you can end up with bad 
results when you are ready to release the yard from the fixture. Practice!

Now you have the yard clamped in place, the line threaded through the fixture. 
There is an adjustment built into the fixture to maintain the scale 3 feet 
(according to Mastini) between the top of the yard and the line (footrope). 
It is adjustable to accomodate different scales. Mine is the Victory by Corel 
at 1:98. So 36" divided by 98 is .367". On my fixture, the line is fixed and 
the double V block that clamps the yard is able to travel up and down and carry 
the yard with it. Just make sure that each double V block clamp is adjusted to 
maintain parallelism between the yard and the line.

The fixture can be made any size you want, to work with the yards of your 
particular model. Once you have made the adstment for the distance from the 
top of the yard to to the line, you can you can now tie your stirrups in place. 
I make tic marks on the yard and when the clove hitches are made, the tic marks 
are hidden by the line around the yard. Of course, the fixture can be used to 
rig any blocks or horses, etc. to the yard because it is clamped in place. 

Once you are done rigging a yard, loosen the clamp of the double V block, 
and the locking screw of the traveling clamp/guide, and move it away from the 
yard, and it will be free. "

Footrope Fixture Parts List

Main Runner Maple 3/4" by 1 1/2" by 18"

Mounting Extrusion Aluminum 1/2" by 3/4" by 18" with 1/8" web ( "U"
channel) (can be a rectangular piece of any material to mount main
runner)

Slide Block Maple 2X 3/4" by 1 1/2" by 2" ( note: 2X = number of pieces)

Clamp Carrier/ Line Guide Block Maple 2X 3/4" by 1 1/2" by 1 3/4"

Tension Key Support Block Maple 2X 7/16" by 1" by 1 1/2"

Lower V Block Maple 2X 3/16" by .236" or 6mm) by 1"

Upper V block Maple 2X .236" or 6mm) by 1/2" by 1"

Tension Key Shaft Walnut 2X 5/16" Diameter by 2 1/4" long rod

Tension Key Handle Walnut 2X 1/4" by 5/16" by 1 5/16" 

Hardware

Socket Head Cap Screws Stainless Steel 2X 10-32 by 1"

Flat Head Cap Screws Steel 2X 10-24 by 1" ( coarse thread used due to tapping 
aluminum extrusion (holds better)

"T" Nuts Black Anodized Aluminum 2X 10-32 by Sherline (can be ordered in a 
package)

Pan Head Phillips M.S.* Stainless Steel 4X 6-32 by 1" * M.S.= Machine Screws

Pan Head Phillips M.S. Stainless Steel 4X 4-40 by 5/8"

Pan Head Phillips M.S. Stainless Steel 2X 4-40 by 7/8"

Flat Washers Stainless Steel 6X # 4

Hex Nuts Stainless Steel 6X 4-40

Slotted Head ThumbScrews Nylon 4X 6-32 by 3/8" (Knurled Heads)
(I happened to have them) MSC carries them. Not a necessity. (they are used 
to lock tension keys)

Inserts Any Material such as Walnut, Nylon, etc.4X by 6-32 tap drill diameter. 
(these are used to 
prevent marring the Tension Key Shafts.*