Lower Bearing Block
The Lower Bearing Block has a total of six holes.
Two are for the locating dowels. They are 3/16" Diameter. Four are bores for the Flanged Ball Bearings. They are .688 Diameter by .219" deep from each side. There is a through bore of .375".
That allows you to remove any bearing by using a wooden push rod ..365-.370" Diameter
Pick up the X and Y location as on the Base Plate.

1. .188" X - .750" Y Dowel Pin
2. .750" X - .750" Y Bearing Bore
3. 2.750" X - .750" Y " "
4. 4.750" X - .750" Y " "
5. 6.750" X - .750" Y " "
6. 7.312" X - .750" Y Dowel Pin

Spool Shafts
Take the 3/8" Hardwood dowel and put it in the lathe chuck. Face it and then turn it to .312" diameter by .875" long. Break the edge slightly with a file. A small radius is good. Turn it around, face it to the 5.000" length. Turn it to .312" diameter by 1.125" long. Break the edge as with the other end. A slot .070-.075" by .156 Deep will be cut into this end. Central to the .312" diameter.
Use a good mini table saw or a slitting saw in the milling machine. That slot is for the drive in the Rigging Line Rack Rewind Unit.

Two holes will be drilled through the Spool Shaft.
They will be .312" in from each shoulder
that was created when you turned the .312" diameters on each end of the Spool Shaft. Use a # 55 drill (.052"). That will allow you to start a line easily to wind it onto the Spool Shaft.

Standoffs
Take the 1/2" hardwood dowel and put it in the lathe chuck. Face it off to provide a surface to measure from. Centerdrill, drill and ream for .188" dowel pin. Drill it .625" deep. That will be for the 1" dowels, and the top of the Standoff. Turn it around and face off to the 4.500" length.
Centerdrill , drill and ream for .188" dowel pin.
Drill it .500" deep.That will be for the 1 1/4" dowels, and the bottom of the Standoff.

Flanges
Cut some oversize ( 1.900"diameter ) circles from 1/8" sheet plastic. Mark off the center. Drill and ream a .312" hole in each circle. Put the circles on a mandrel in the lathe. Clamp them together, and turn them to 1.875" diameter. Make a few extra.

Upper Bearing Plates
Cut two pieces of 1/4" thick plastic by 2.188" by 10". There will be a total of seven holes. Four are for the Needle Bearings. Three are for the pins in the top of the Standoffs. Pick up the X and Y reference edges as in the Base Plate and the Lower Bearing Block.

1. .250" X - .250" Y Dowel Pin
2. 2.000" X - .750" Y Bearing Bore
3. 4.000" X - .750" Y " "
4. 5.000" X - 1.950"Y " "
5. 6.000" X - .750" Y " "
6. 8.000" X - .750" Y" " "
7. 9.750" X - .250" Y Dowel Pin

I cut the Upper Bearing Plates as in the Photo(s).
That allows access to the spools in the unit.

There is not one screw in the entire unit. It was developed, designed and built with one goal in mind. To enable me to store, access my rigging line without having to use any tools.